10 (Probably) Unknown Points of Interest in Kyoto
Hiking on Atagoyama
What is it?
Mount Atago, in the north-west of Arashiyama, happens to be the highest mountain in Kyoto Prefecture (and not Hieizan as many believe – because it’s actually located in neighboring Shiga Prefecture) and offers a beautiful but tough hike up to its summit, where lies a shrine. Count two to three hours walk on a steep slope that gets flatter around midway through, before getting steeper once more for the last third of the journey.
You’ll get a few glimpses of the surrounding mountains as you climb, but most of the trip takes place in the forest. There are however several side trails that can satisfy everyone’s tastes in terms of length and difficulty (but we’re still talking mountain trails so don’t expect perfectly flat paths). Besides, the place is free of tourists, silent and in the middle of nature, and the various trails are clearly signposted and easy to follow.
Access
The mountain is big, with many hiking trails and therefore many access points. However if you’re coming via public transport, the easiest option is to take bus 92 or 94 from Arashiyama station (accessible from Kyoto center via the Hankyu line, JR line or Randen line, but they all stop at different stations) to Kiyotaki village. From there, take one of the two roads next to the bus stop going down to the river and the village itself. Cross the bridge and the village and you’ll get to the gate indicating the entrance of the mountain. Then it’s up to you to pick your itinerary!
Advice
During my first visit, I simply went up to Kuya Falls and back. It took about two hours and the path wasn’t very steep (except in a few places) but it was beautiful; one area had a stone staircase covered in moss that reminded of some of the movies from Ghibli studio.
The second time, we walked all the way up to the shrine at the top, before taking a muddy and slippery way down (don’t go there after heavy rains!) that led us to the charming Mizuo village – very proud of its yuzu!
Incidentally, the very moment one leaves the forest and reaches the village, the view suddenly opens over the surrounding mountains and the road down below – magical.
Then we followed the car road all the way to Hozukyo station, which overlooks the Hozu Gorge (you can even swim there!), amidst an enchanting scenery, surrounded by mountains, away from time and the world.